Wolves of the Alexander Archipelago
CRUNCH, CRUNCH, SPLASH, CRUNCH!” I hear them before I see them as I paddle my kayak around a rocky point in Glacier Bay National Park: 12 wolves feasting on a bed of mussels at low tide. They smack their lips, tearing bivalves from the rocks, crushing them in a few snaps, and swallowing them shell and all.
Exploring Katmai’s wild coast
Our floatplane skimmed low over a grassy headland. I pressed my nose against the window to see a family of brown bears ambling along a game trail below.
A new arrival in Glacier Bay
STEALTH IS NOT AN OPTION WHEN YOU’RE TRAMPING THROUGH WILLOWS. Schlock, schkoomp! My boots sink into ankle-deep muck, threatening to pull off as I wrestle my way across an open wetland.